Jangseungs (totems, or road idols) at Autumn Pass-
Churyung Jangseung Village in Suhma-ri, Bokheung-myeon, Sunchang-gun, North Jeolla Province. This region, located on a mountain pass 320 meters above sea level, is famous for its cool summer weather and snowy winter landscape. However, nothing compares to the beauty of its autumn, thus the name Churyung, or Autumn Pass.
The Jangseung Festival has been held for 10 years, showcasing all jangseungs produced in this village each year. This festival is famous for showing Korean features well.
From ancient times, jangseungs have been standing in front of each village, making the beholder feel warm and easy with its amusing looks. They have been steadily disappearing under the wave of modernization, but to the villagers of Churyung who remember their smiles, they are still the main characters in the autumn festival.
This village, which is known to be the only jangseung village in Korea, is full of not only traditional jangseungs, but also works from Africa, Siberia, India, etc. There are about 1,000 jangseungs with various expressions in a 2,000-pyong area.
There is much fun just in looking at the various jangseungs, such as the zodiac jangseung series including one in the form of a snake holding out its tongue, and a very decorative couple jangseung. Most are grotesque figures, resembling the King of Hell with their big wild eyes and exposed teeth, but some look like kind old men when closely examined. Also, there are many lessons to learn from the verses carved on each jangseung; messages such as You can obtain only if you give away or Smile at least three times a day, no matter what.
What My Own Totem Looks Like-
A triangular-shaped straw hut in Jangseung Village, a representation of a pre-historic hut, is the perfect place for a short rest. You can have a taste of traditional tea at a village inn located in the middle of the village and with jangseungs lined around it like walls. There is also a place where you can get jangseung drawings for free.
You can even make your own jangseungs. Village chief Yoon Heung-gwan and some craftsmen teach visitors to carve jangseungs. To children living in the city, jangseungs are unfamiliar beings, but they become friends with them once they experience the art of jangseung carving (20,000 won each). The children excitedly carve the wood with remarkable skills. They seem to be awed by the ugly logs slowly transforming into jangseungs.
Carving jangseungs is not as difficult as expected. First, you cut a fragrant pine tree into 50 to 60 cm pieces and peel their outer skins, after which the craftsmen pre-arrange the face contours for you. The details of the face such as the eyes, nose, and mouth are entirely up to the maker.
To make big, flaring eyes, carve deeply around the round-shaped eyes, and to make sharps eyes, carve slightly around the oval-shaped eyes. In order to make a distinguishable jangseung form, the point is to make the eyes and mouth big. It is a warming sight to see the whole family gather around a jangseung and each carve a part as if to compete against each other.
It usually takes around two hours to carve one jangseung. The wrist aches after so much carving, but your heart will fill with pride at the sight of the completed jangseung.
However the carving of jangseungs requires sharp instruments, so you should not be thinking of anything else. A wonderful jangseung will be made if much concentration and devotion is put into it. You can also apply color to your work and take it home.
The Red Esplanades of Mt. Gangcheon-
After carving jangseungs, take a trip to Mt. Gangcheon, which is 15 minutes away by car. Mt. Gangcheon, which lies between Sunchang-gun and Damyang-gun of South Jeolla Province, represents the autumnal tints of North Jeolla Province. It is only 584 meters high, but the people of Sunchang-gun take more pride in this mountain than Mt. Jiri which is located across Seomjin River, because the deep valleys and fantastic rock formations raise the name value of this mountain.
In the autumn, the esplanade that stretches from the ticket booth to the elevated bridge is especially popular. Gangcheon Stream, which flows next to a flat path, turns into a sea of red as if a red carpet has been pulled over it. Passing the elevated bridge (suspended 50 meters from the ground) that is wide enough for only one person is another enjoyment that can only be experienced here. Although it is made of steel, the bridge shakes when one reaches the middle, which is scary enough to make the passers legs shake. The autumnal tints in Mt. Gangcheon are expected to reach its peak from the end of October to the beginning of November.
Churyung Jangseung Village: 063-652-5596.
Mt. Gangcheon Management Office: 063-650-1533.
Article: Travel Planner Choi Mi-sun
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Photographs=Freelance Photographer Shin Seok-gyo
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