Pure Island, Gwanmae Do

Waterway to Gwanmae Island (Chodo Myun, Jindo Kun, Chunnam) is very special. One island after another continues in this waterway to Gwanmae Island. Where is this waterway? This eye-catching blue sea is called Dadohae. Even within Dadohae, sea nearby Gwanmae Island looks more special. It is like Dadohae within Dadohae. Chodo Myun has 154 islands. Gwanmae Island is located at the end of Dadohae.

When most Southern islands lure many for their sense of mysteriousness, Gwanme Island seems to fall behind because it is underdeveloped. Yet, thanks to its uniqueness, Gwanme Island begins to attract people. It is ironic that even its under-developed status is highlighted as an attractive element.

Gwanmae Island’s pier looks special. There is neither sashimi restaurant nor any commercial store. It is rather an absurd place. Gwanme Island welcomes visitors with its pure naturalness. The first thing that captures visitors’ eyes is its white sandy beach. It is a 3 km long beach along the side of a breakwater. The depth of water is low. It resembles Mediterranean Sea or Caribbean Sea. There is black pine tree forest behind the beach. The forest looks as if it watches out for the violent sea. This is the scenery of Gwanme Beach. Barley field is dancing with fresh May wind of the sea.

Once one passes black pine tree forest, one can enter the town. A fisherman was coming back from the work with his wife riding on a cart filled with fresh seaweed and tangleweed.

I asked Cho Sung-Chae (57), fisherman, for lodging. The stories about Gwanmae Island I heard that night at Songbaek Jung (private lodging, 061-544-4433) is exciting enough to attract tourists. Stories about Gwanmae Island seem endless; private lodging is located behind black pine tree forest; quality of seafood is the best in the nation; the Gwanmae Island is the purist island in the Southern Sea.

There is a saying that seeing is believing. The dinner feast proved this point. Both the dishes and the owner’s kindness were abundant. Because there are no inns and bars in Gwanmae Island, owners of the private lodging serve people by themselves.

People got together around the bonfire on the beach and enjoyed the Moon light and the sound of the waves. A Buddhist monk was there too. Monk Huh-Joo from a Buddhist temple in Gochang, Chunbook, said he visited this place last year too. I asked him why he visited this place. His answer was simple. ‘This is the perfect place to empty mind...’

Next morning I rented a boat and went out to sea. I saw many strange looking rocks, such as Sky Rock, Grandma Rock, Kkogdol Rock, etc. The mysterious scenery of Gwanmae Island looked more stunning when viewed from the sea. Some of the residents were picking seafood. When Ko Yong-Min (44) shook the boat, it moved up and down like ‘Viking’ ship in the amusement park. Tourists in the boat shouted ‘Wahoo!’ One of the tourists murmured, ‘I wish I could stay here for ten days fishing and resting...’

(For questions, call 061-544-9399)

Lee Won-Hong bluesky@donga.com