Iranians Glum as US Attack Fears Mount

The conflict between Iran and the West has reached its peak surrounding Iran’s nuclear development. Britain and France submitted a resolution to the U.N. Security Council requesting sanctions on Iran’s nuclear development on May 3, and the U.S. dispatched the aircraft carrier Enterprise to the Gulf coast. Nonetheless, Iran is growing more determined to show its unyielding attitude. Against this backdrop, I visited Teheran, the heart of the country where the eyes and ears of the world are focused on.

Teheran’s Bazaar was crowded with people on the afternoon of May 3. The bazaar, which is responsible for one third of Iran’s economy, has long been well-known for its kindness and hospitality. Although the market was still lively with bargaining sounds, the seller’s faces were gloomy and there were a few shops closed down due to bad business.

It seemed as if the growing tension outside the nation was suppressing the air in the market. Merchants say they see fewer foreign tourists of late.

“There are much fewer foreign tourists now and business is not good,” said a merchant. “I do not believe there will be a war, but I am worried to hear that a U.S. aircraft carrier is coming,” he added. “There is some kind of tension building up here, and the government lowered annual interest rate from 20 percent to 10 percent, triggering a surge in gold prices,” complained another merchant selling gold and silver.

One shopper at the market claimed that Iran is different from Iraq and that the U.S. will not be able to attack Iran. The center of Teheran is as busy as any other big city in the West. During rush hour, the three-lane road soon turns into a five-lane road with jammed cars regardless of the traffic signals and law, but every car somehow manages to find its way on the congested road.

One diplomat describes Iran as a country of “orderly disorder,” explaining that with disorder so rampant around the country, Iranian society has learnt to form an order of its own.

The reason why Iranian people deny any possibility of the U.S. attack is related to the concept of “orderly disorder.”

“The U.S. will not be able to launch a military attack against Iran as easily as it did against Iraq. Iran is a big country with strong army, and above all, many countries are against the U.S. attack on Iran,” said one energy professor at Teheran University, avoiding commenting on politics.

There were many people showing their determination to fight back if attacked, but the city was under a deep cloud of tension and nervousness.

klimt@donga.com