City of Water, Fire and Lights Blooms in Sundry Colors

Jinju is the city of night, the city of water, and also the city of art and gourmet. All of this and more can be enjoyed at the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival.

○ The City where the Night is Beautiful

Chokseongnu is a turret built on the stone cliffs overlooking the Namgang, or Nam River. Euiam, or righteous stone, is the place where Nongae, a patriotic Korean woman, jumped to her death, embraced by an invading Japanese general. The Nam River comes from the Gyeongho and Deokho River which originate from the outskirts of Mt. Jiri and the winds of Lake Jinyang. The intersection of Chokseongnu and Nam River is breathtaking scenery indeed. At night, to enjoy to the fullest the sight of Chokseongnu, it should be seen from across the river at the bamboo forest. One can see the splendid Nam River and Chokseongnu through the bamboo curtain, accompanied by the chirps of native birdlife. Currently, with the ongoing festival, flashy yudeung, or lanterns, are embroidered everywhere up to Gangsang, turning night into day. The Millennium Plaza is located at the end of the bamboo forest. This time, rays of light stretching to the sky, replace the bamboo. There are two bridges in Nam River, the Jinju and Cheonsu Bridges. These two bridges are synonymous with the night scenery of Jinju. The lights that decorate the arched bridge supports and the reflection of the bridge on the water are reminiscent of Seine in Paris, France. The view of the road by the long cliffs along the river banks, illuminated by the street lamps and the rainbow-like dancing water fountain that colors the river banks of Cheonsu Bridge, are also must-sees. The dancing water fountain with this illuminant radiance mesmerizes night strollers, and this alone can make living in Jinju a happy bliss.

○ City of Water, Jinju

Jinju and the Nam River are like the two sides of a coin. Jinju Castle exists because of Nam River, and Jinju exists because of Jinju Castle; and that is why it was inevitable for yudeung to originate from Jinju. Let’s look at the Jinju Castle during the Japanese invasion of 1592, or the imjin invasion. The castle, being surrounded by water from all four sides, was nature’s own fortress. The Nam River ran across the south, the north was covered by Daesa Lake, and Haeja and Nanbul Stream were located in the east and west respectively. The perplexed Japanese army tried to cross to the castle by filling the Daesa Lake, but they were halted by soldiers and militia who floated oil lanterns on the water. The waters surrounding Jinju Castle have since dried up, but Jinyang Lake has replaced them. Originally it was created as a reservoir for the Nam River multi-purpose dam, but has now become the source of potable water for the three cities of Jinju, Sacheon and Tongyeong. The road encircling the lake famous as a marathon course, also has a stunning night view. In addition, one should also see the tunnel-style illumination of the “one-year stairs,” named for its 365 steps; upon which the surface illumination, as well as lightening, shows the cliff’s reflection on the water as clear as a projection screen.

○ The Womb of Gyobang Culture and Jinju Art

Back in the Joseon Dynasty there was a saying amongst refined men that claimed: “In the south there is Jinju, and Pyongyang in the north,” referring to the gyobang culture of both cities. Gyobang was the state’s institution to train dancers and singers for the court and it started off in the Goryeo Dynasty and existed until 1905. They were also known was gisaeng, and the Jinju gisaeng were famous from the dawn of time, and were mentioned in Goryeo history books. They were also included in the top list of Joseon gisaeng, alongside Hwang Jin-yi, Hong Rang and Mae Chang – all famous gisaeng with gorgeous looks and unparallel artistic talents. The artistic scent of Jinju gyobang can be fully felt in gyobang dances such as Jinju sword dance, hallyang dance, gyobang gutgeori, and seonyurak, all of which have been carried down through the people of Jinju.

After gyobang were dismantled and replaced by gwonbeon, the office that took care of gisaengs, the artists of gyobang spread their talents to Jinju culture. The vice-chairman of the Jinju Culture and Arts Foundation, Jang Il-yeong, said, “In order to writings of poetry, even the poet Kim So-wol received poems written by Jinju gisaeng, which were given as studying materials by his teacher. The artistic talent emanating from gyobang contributed to the Jinju having many song writers and singers in the early stages of Korean gayo.” Sohn Mok-in who wrote “Crush,” “Tears of Mokpo,” and “The Symphonic Poem of the Sea,” in addition to Lee Jae-ho, who composed “Grief of a Vagabond” and “Tavern with Address,” as well as Jeong Min-seop of “Bold Young Man” and “Army Private Kim,” are all composers native to Jinju. Nam In-su, who has recorded in excess of 1,000 songs, over 27 years including the “Serenade of Sorrow,” is also from Jinju.

The Nongae Festival, which is held in every March, is a good starting point to experience gyobang culture. Jinju Gyobang dance and Jinju Five Clown Play are performed during this period. The Euiam Ritual, a prelude of the festival, was state sponsored, and originally initiated in 1868 by King Gojong, to remember Nongae, and is currently re-enacted as it is more than one hundred years old. At Euki Temple, a temple built in the memory of Nongae, one can take a peek at the portrait of Nongae as well as writings by the famous Dasan Jeong Yak-yong. He wrote, “If a frail and young woman can kill a Japanese general and serve the country, the loyalty between a subject and the king has been shown to the entire world. There is nothing to worry about in the loss of castle, and isn’t this an exciting thing?”

○ The Region of Gourmets, Jinju

The dishes of Jinju are also a product of Gyobang. Thanks in part to being the central city of Gyeongsang Province since the Shilla, Goryeo and Joseon dynasties, all the government officials sent from the capital enjoyed endless parties in Jinju. Being situated right next to Mt. Jiri and the South Sea, and located in the path between Gyeongsang and Jeolla Province, contributed to the development of Jinju cuisine. Gyobang and Gwonbeon disappeared but one can still find the colors, scent and taste of dishes served there in Arirang Restaurants, which are famous among Japanese tourists as part of the “Daejangeum Cuisine Experience.” Using traditional obang, five colors to represent the four directions and center, and omi, the five tastes of sourness, bitterness, pungency, sweetness and saltiness, the traditional cuisine of Jinju is very distinct compared to the thick and rich dishes of Jeolla Province. It is a completely different culinary experience that gives a new look to Jinju. Jinju bibimbap, or rice with assorted vegetables and meat, and roasted eel, are delicacies of Jinju. Although Jeonju is known as the home of bibimbap, in Jinju, Jinju is considered to be the originator of bibimbap. And such claim have been reportedly created during the Jinju castle battle. The greatest difference in the dish of both regions in the eyes of Jinju natives is raw beef. Jinju bibimbap has to contain raw beef, and be accompanied by botang and seonji soup. Eel roast has long been a traditional local dish. About 20 restaurants crowd the so-called eel-street, located by the banks of Nam River in front of the Jinju Castle, forming a shrine for eel lovers everywhere.

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