Solitary Mountain Trail… Filling by Wind

I once visited Mt. Taebaek’s Jungam Temple in 1959 or the year after. I was, then, a history instructor at Air Force Academy, and I had heard that Jungam Temple was a Buddhist seminary and its Shilla-era tower was great.

I set on the road with just a camera on my back and a senior friend. A train left Cheonyangri and arrived in Jungsun early in the morning. By the time we reached Mt. Taebaek, it was already noon. Somebody told us that we had to walk for 20 kilometers on rough trail from there.

We were walking along the trail, when we saw a coal-truck on its way up. I stopped the vehicle and explained the situation, and then the drive said although the truck would not go all the way to Jungam Temple, there is another coal-truck that will go from the mine-headquarters. We reached the headquarters after an hour on a hundred up and down hills.

An hour after leaving the place on a passenger’s seat, we finally set our feet below Jungam Temple. The driver kindly showed us the way.

It was at the sunset, when we arrived at the temple. No time to enjoy the view, I explained, ¡°We’ve come to see the temple and the tower.¡°

We were, then, told that because Jungam Temple was only for monks to meditate, outsiders could not be accommodated. But the sun had already set. The priests helplessly gave us a clean room. I thought they were so pure and clear that they almost seemed like immortal beings.

Although the dinner only offered a bowl of rice, little Toenjang, and salty radish leaves, I could fill my stomach just with the fresh wind. The head priest’s Buddhist name was, then, Seok-Ho, and although he seemed thin and tenacious, he was hospitable to us.

The tower was located upon a steep hill. Its height reached 9 meters and it was exciting to see how such a mysterious and grand tower could be placed on hillside.

As we were setting to depart after early breakfast, the priests pled that we stay for lunch because the way down is easy. Lunch was indeed a thick and strong delicacy. Along with a mixed-grain bowl of rice, fried greens were served as the subsidiary dish.

I heard that Priest Seok-Ho later became Seo-Ong, a superintendent priest at the Chogye Order, and is now at Baekyang Temple. I sincerely wish Buddhahood upon priest Seo-Ong and other priests we met then.