Ppyeo-haejang-guk, a bowl of humble devotion

I had heard great things about an old ppyeo-haejang-guk, or pork bone hangover soup, restaurant near Gwangheungchang Station on Seoul’s subway Line 6, so I went to try it myself. I ordered a bowl for 11,000 won. It came with a hot stone pot of soup, cucumber peppers with soybean paste sauce, cubed radish kimchi, and napa cabbage kimchi. A generous scoop of perilla seed powder is the unspoken rule when eating this dish, a taste every seasoned drinker in South Korea would instantly recognize. The broth was rich and deeply flavored, yet smooth and easy to swallow. The meat on the pork spine was tender, much like boiled pork slices.

Ppyeo-haejang-guk holds a unique place in South Korean society. It is not considered gourmet fare, but it is so satisfying that people from all walks of life eat it regularly. Perhaps because of South Korea’s long history of poverty well into the modern era, there is a special fondness for dishes made from animal bones. Few other cultures make such frugal yet flavorful use of livestock bones. Koreans simmer beef bones for dishes like seolleongtang, or ox bone soup, and boil pork bones for soups and noodles. In the West, pork backbones are typically discarded, but in Korea, they are prized ingredients for ppyeo-haejang-guk and gamjatang, or pork backbone stew.

Thanks to this widespread love, the 1990s saw a boom in ppyeo-haejang-guk and gamjatang restaurant franchises. Today, many such restaurants are part of national chains. The place I visited, however, is a rare exception, run independently by a husband-and-wife team. According to industry insiders, it is difficult for individuals to operate such restaurants because pork backbones are usually supplied in large wholesale quantities.

The owners are Park Sang-hoon and Park Seo-yeon, a couple in their early to mid-60s with a gentle and sincere demeanor. They once ran a popular fried chicken franchise. One day, they happened to try ppyeo haejang-guk and were completely won over by its taste. Watching others enjoy it just as much, they felt it had real potential and boldly launched their own restaurant.

The key to their flavor, of course, is care. From the time they receive the pork bones to when the soup is served, the process takes 17 hours. The bones are soaked and boiled repeatedly. The couple also experimented many times to develop their signature seasoning paste, which they say is a trade secret. Fortunately, word has spread. They now go through about 180 kilograms of pork bones a day, with even higher volumes in the peak winter season. When asked how they differentiate themselves from franchise restaurants, the Parks simply smiled and said they focus on making food honestly. They also stress the importance of integrity to their staff.

They added that they have shared their recipe with friends and acquaintances to help them start their own businesses. Although they could register as a franchise and make more money, their real strength seems to lie in their humility and generosity. By chance, I saw a quiet moment when the kitchen staff were eating. Mr. Park gently placed their spoons on the table with care, a small gesture that reflected the spirit behind their food.