A budget-friendly bowl for summer cravings

Naengmyeon, the Korean cold noodle dish served in broth or with spicy sauce, has long become a year-round staple. Some say it tastes best in the biting cold of winter, but I believe it's truly meant to be enjoyed for its cooling qualities as the weather warms. In my experience, the craving kicks in right around Gogu (Grain Rain), the last seasonal period of spring, leading into Ipha (the start of summer). That’s when restaurants begin adding naengmyeon back to their menus, and from then on, famed naengmyeon spots see lines out the door.

Some establishments make their own broth and knead the noodles by hand, earning loyal followings. Others, like snack bars, serve dishes made with factory-prepped broth and noodles. Sankkachi Naengmyeon, located in the food alley near Gongdeok Station in Seoul’s Mapo District, occupies a curious middle ground. It caters to those who find 15,000-won premium naengmyeon too steep but can’t settle for mass-produced fare.

At Sankkachi, both mul-naengmyeon (in cold broth) and bibim-naengmyeon (spicy version) are priced at 9,000 won. Its reputation for quality at a reasonable price draws regular lunch crowds. I ordered the mul-naengmyeon, added vinegar and mustard, and took a bite. The arrowroot-infused noodles were satisfyingly chewy. The Hamheung-style broth struck a fine balance of sweetness and acidity, filling my mouth with a refreshing umami and what could only be called a cosmic tartness.

When you order the bibim-naengmyeon, the cold broth is served on the side, inviting you to mix and match flavors. They also serve a complimentary cup of hot beef bone broth—a rich, savory touch that older patrons especially appreciate as both a starter and a finisher.

Naengmyeon may have started as a humble dish, but its newfound popularity across generations has driven up prices, drawing criticism. Compared with enduringly modest staples like jjajangmyeon, kalguksu or makguksu, today's naengmyeon prices can feel excessive. That’s where Sankkachi Naengmyeon offers a practical alternative. For less than 10,000 won, diners can enjoy a sophisticated Hamheung-style or Bukchon-style bowl in one of Seoul’s trendiest neighborhoods—a small but meaningful comfort for the urban workforce.