STAR’s TECH: "Dreaming of a Global Beauty Brand with the High-Performance Collagen 'Penellagen'"

The Samil PwC Management Research Institute released a report titled "Changes in the K-Beauty Industry", summarizing the key 2024 beauty industry trends as "6S": ▲Smart Beauty, ▲Self-Care, ▲Skinimalism, ▲Slow Aging, ▲Sustainability, and ▲Social Marketing. Excluding marketing elements, the emphasis in this field is on next-generation materials and devices for skin care with minimal harmful effects, alongside environmental sustainability. Given that beauty products come into direct contact with the skin, those ingredients with proven efficacy will likely determine the market success.

Hando Choi, Vice President of STAR’s TECH / Source: iT DongA


In response to these market demands, STAR’s TECH, an eco-friendly technology company, is offering a solution that combines next-generation ingredients with sustainability. The company recycles starfish, which are known to harm marine ecosystems, to produce various products. STAR’s TECH has integrated its proprietary ingredient "Penellagen," which is derived from starfish, into its beauty brand Labope. This collagen-based transdermal delivery system (TDS) offers a significantly higher rate of absorption than conventional animal-derived collagen.

Innovative Research Solves both Scientific and Environmental Challenges

“Human skin consists of three layers: ▲epidermis, ▲dermis, and ▲subcutaneous fat. The dermis, which contains ▲collagen, ▲elastin, and ▲hyaluronic acid, plays a vital role in maintaining healthy skin. As we age, our collagen deteriorates, leading to sagging skin and wrinkles. While hyaluronic acid and elastin can be somewhat replenished with the use of cosmetics, collagen cannot,” explained Hando Choi, Vice President of STAR’s TECH.

He highlighted that Penellagen is an ingredient with both proven ▲efficacy and ▲eco-friendly benefits, which is why it has been made the foundation for Labope’s premium functional cosmetics.

Penellagen developed by STAR’s TECH / Source: STAR’s TECH


STAR’s TECH developed Penellagen as part of its broader efforts to recycle starfish into environmentally and socially valuable products, such as ▲de-icing agents and ▲liquid fertilizers. The company’s rigorous research led to the discovery of Penellagen, as both a scientific and an environmental innovation. However, convincing the industry of the potential for this new ingredient proved to be challenging. This led the company to launch its own brand, called Labope, in order to demonstrate its capabilities with high-performance products.

Penellagen delivers the collagen extracted from starfish through elastic capsules that penetrate deep into the skin. While the standard rate of collagen absorption is only about 0.1%, Labope’s collagen penetrates much deeper, significantly outperforming conventional products. Unlike traditional collagen, which is difficult to integrate with transdermal delivery systems, Penellagen’s amino acid-adjusted properties ensure its stable encapsulation.

STAR’s TECH competes with global beauty brands through its high-performance cosmetics brand, Labope / Source: STAR’s TECH


Labope products are focused on enhancing ▲skin elasticity, ▲improving wrinkles, ▲providing antioxidants, and ▲increasing the skin density. Although these benefits are common claims in the beauty industry, Labope’s reliance on Penellagen as its signature ingredient is what sets it apart. This emphasis is reflected in the product packaging, which prominently features the Penellagen ingredient.

"K-Beauty is often focused on trends and consumer preferences, rather than on ingredients or patented materials. By contrast, we wanted to center the Labope brand around Penellagen," Choi said. He also stressed the importance of communicating both the scientific results of Penellagen and the brand’s commitment to sustainability.

A key challenge in focusing on Penellagen has been how to communicate the efficacy of this ingredient to the market. "It is important to convey the scientific results of Penellagen research to customers," said Hando Choi, Vice President of STAR’s TECH. "However, I also believe it is also crucial to express the brand’s genuine commitment to the environment. After refining various elements such as our ▲marketing, ▲eco-friendly materials, and ▲design, we plan to take an aggressive approach starting in 2025," he added.
Recognized for Innovation and Positioned for Global Expansion

The lessons learned during Labope’s initial market entry have helped clarify its brand direction. As STAR’s TECH was not originally a cosmetics company, the team had to learn about the beauty market in a step-by-step way, by gathering feedback from users to refine its brand strategy as a premium functional cosmetics line.

STAR’s TECH is pursuing a differentiated global expansion strategy, targeting regions with high income levels and strong brand value recognition, rather than merely populous markets. The company has already entered markets in ▲Japan, ▲China, and ▲the United States, with plans to expand further. Exports of Penellagen as a raw material are also actively underway. Choi expressed his determination to forge a new path for K-Beauty, rather than following a traditional route. “We want to build the Labope brand by consistently emphasizing its ▲functionality, as well as our ▲scientific rigor, and ▲eco-friendly values, rather than by chasing trends,” he explained.

The company’s progress in global markets has been supported by the Seoul Business Agency (SBA), which provides promotional assistance and tailored solutions for export-oriented companies. This support has strengthened STAR’s TECH’s global business capabilities and allowed the company to establish new export channels. According to Choi, SBA’s assistance is helping the company take its first steps toward becoming a global brand.

Hando Choi, Vice President of STAR’s TECH / Source: iT DongA


The company’s future goals include becoming a respected global brand with a strong identity, akin to major international beauty brands. STAR’s TECH is also aiming to continue developing eco-friendly ingredients that have a positive impact on the environment, while growing into a company of significant value.

Expanding the use of Penellagen remains the top priority. “We’re exploring various ways to make Penellagen widely accessible. Stabilizing the raw material prices is crucial, and we’re addressing this from multiple angles. Our ultimate goal is for many companies to include Penellagen as a standard ingredient,” Choi said.

by Hyung-seok Kang (redbk@itdonga.com)