Two faces of Yasukuni Shrine

Japan’s summer feels like a steaming pot with heat aggravated by humidity. August is the hottest month in Japan. This summer, however, feels even hotter due to diplomatic strains between Korea and Japan caused Yasukuni Shrine visits by Japanese Prime Minister and other ministers on August 15.

When the season of cherry blossom arrives in April, the entrance of the shrine is packed with snack carts. Springtime merrymakers fill their stomach at Chidorigafuchi (千鳥ヶ淵), Tokyo’s most famous attraction for cherry blossom connected to the entrance of Yasukuni Shrine.

During the period of during the Mitama Matsuri festival between July 13 and July 16, couples visit the shrine. Yellow lamps brighten up the street from the entrance to the shrine for worship. Lamp lights create dreamlike atmosphere luring young couples in their 10s and 20s to enjoy the shrine festival.

In appearance, Yasukuni Shrine is not different from other shrines. On Friday morning last week, a few Japanese individuals were paying tributes to the shrine while a group of elderly people was listening to a tour guide.

If one visits the shrine on any normal day, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe may seem right when he said in his interview with July issue of Japanese monthly magazine Chuougoron (中央公論), “Many Korean and Chinese people who think Yasukuni Shrine is to exalt militarism are surprised to see there’s no military personnel in the shrine. Visitors to the shrine never hope to go back to the militaristic era.”

Cherry flowers, stalls, festivals and quiet atmosphere may not remind people of militarism. But visiting the shrine a few more times will reveal another face of the shrine -- nostalgia for militarism. Has Japan ever felt sorry for its wars of aggression?

On one corner of the shrine, an exhibition marking the 70th anniversary of the Greater East Asia is held. On a TV screen at the entrance of the exhibition site, a sentence says, "Western powers were advancing into Asia to colonize, Japan tried to liberalize Asia was being displayed." From Japan’s point of view, the Pacific War began by Japan’s attacking the U.S. in December 1941 represents Japan’s endeavor to liberate Asia from Western powers.

The Yushukan, the shrine’s exhibition hall, displays about 100,000 historic relics from the 1868 Meiji Restoration. A site of steam locomotives displayed at the entrance of the 1st floor is a photo spot for tourists. But the exhibition hall failed to display a sign board to explain that 60,000 foreign workers from Thailand and China and 15,000 war prisoners were killed during the construction of the locomotives.

Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the initiator of Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592, is explained that he sent troops to Korea in order to conquer China, but his dream could not come true. The fact that he invaded Korea was not hinted anywhere in the explanation.

In the explanation of the Pacific War, it says, “Liberalization of Asian nations were made after Japan won the Greater East Asia War. By the time Japan lost the war, Asian countries had achieved independence.” People of Indonesia and the Philippines might have something to say about this interpretation of the war and their independence.

Japanese visitors leave their thoughts in a guest book. Most of the visitors wrote, “I appreciate ancestors who sacrificed their lives.” No one mentioned about the reason for their death. On a comment by a guest (presumably a foreigner) that said Japan should reflect on its invasions of other countries, a Japanese wrote, “I wish this kind of people won’t come to Yasukuni Shrine.”

There are many diplomatic issues including Dokdo and comfort women between Korea and Japan. As long as Japan tries to cover up and even embellish its wrong deeds in the past, diplomatic conflicts between the two countries will not be resolved soon.